The Loft Bar and Grill is a pop-up you won’t want to miss. Located upstairs from Duxton at O’Connor, this is an exciting little restaurant that is set to entertain you with an ever-changing menu at the hands of the Head Chef, Griff Pammentt.
Pammentt, with his strong focus on locally-sourced produce, is really taking this concept seriously. Rosemary is sourced from Floor Manager Nikki’s garden, while the kitchen’s honey comes from a backyard just a few streets away. There’s a local feel as well, through the friendly feel of the staff and the relaxed environment of Loft’s bar.
In the beautifully warm and relaxed dining room, the blackboard on the wall tells the story of the kitchen’s daily whims. Here, he plays with dishes that suit seasonal produce, or work better with the weather of the day. It’s not so much a Special’s Board as a reflection of the changing mood of the weather outside.
Served with lightly fried sage (also from Nikki’s well-stocked garden!) the Crispy Chick-pea Pancake is filled with the sweetness of caramelised onion. A generous squeeze of the accompanying lemon brings balance, and the result is a relaxed dish that disguises its dimension of flavour under a simple visual presence.
For a range of snacks, would you consider a Fish Charcuterie Board? Well, you really should. One of the highlights (apart from the Tuna Bresaola and the Smoked Ora King Salmon) is the Octopus Salami. This is Pammentt playing with technique – rolling octopus and chilling it until it’s ready to be thinly sliced. The flavour is deep, but undeniably fresh, and again is perfect with a squeeze of lemon.
(Note: We could write volumes on the salmon, but will simply say this: expect a divine cut that melts in your mouth, topped with slivers of radish for a little bit of tang and crunch.)
The Chicken Liver Paté is as generous serving as you are likely to find, with the taste almost has smooth as the texture. Load up the char-grilled bread with as many generous scoops as you can, because there is plenty to go around. This is a great execution of that local feel – where you’re here to be filled to the brim before leaving the table.
Next to arrive is the Veal Caillettes. Flaming skewers of dried rosemary sprigs introduce a piece of theatre to the table – but also provide a stimulus for your sense of smell as the aromatic tendrils rise from the plate. It’s a great match for the strong rich and punchy flavour of the veal. A dollop of mustard helps to cut through the wonderful earthiness of the veal, but be careful not to add too much!
Delicate shavings of fresh fennel decorate the sumptuous Lobster Risotto. Served with a saffron butter, the risotto holds its form together beautifully, right in the sweet spot that so few versions of the dish manage to find.
Trinity Grass-fed Scotch Fillet (300g) with golden garlic butter. There’s a selection of six condiments available, most intriguing of which is the chipotle cream. While the beef and garlic butter combination is outstanding on its own, the chipotle adds a smoky spice that provides a superb counterpoint to the sweet richness of the beef. It’s simply amazing.
In keeping with this gastronomic showcase, Chilli Chocolate Ganache is a fitting finale. It’s as though the full range of the kitchen’s cheeky skills have returned to the stage for one last bow.
Served with salted peanut brittle and roasted plums, this is a complex arrangement of flavours. The plums hide a hint of star anise, adding sweetness to the sour. Heat of the chilli comes in through the cool ganache, and the crunch of the peanut brittle is heightened by the presence of salt. The palate takes a final pirouette before it’s save to exit stage left and leave the table.
All-in-all, Loft Bar and Grill pop-up offers a fantastic opportunity for Canberrans to embrace dishes that dance right on the edge, in a space where the staff are excited to talk about the ideas on display. It’s clever, cheeky and shouldn’t be missed.
Book now before it closes in late May!
