The fairy-lit wonderland that is Mint Garden Bar still conjures an atmosphere of European elegance and care-free summertime laughter upon entry to Gorman House’s much loved Sage Restaurant. For a cool winter’s night in Canberra the illusion is no mean feat, and sets a very welcome tone of blissful indulgence – readily enjoyed throughout the first class experience to which Sage plays exemplary host.
The current midweek dining concept is new and a refreshing way of consolidating patrons favourite dishes into this summer’s menu. The brilliant wait-staff arrive table-side, armed with a hefty stamp brought down upon the paper-covered table top – creating an instant and interactive score-card. There is no menu to read and no way of knowing what dish will be next – everything is explained tableside course by course.
The appetizer of sourdough with freshly churned butter is definitely worth a mention. Warm, thick slices of bread are handed out with tongs from a wicker linen lined basket and served with an elegant dollop of butter – freshly churned in-house each day. It is possibly the smoothest, creamiest and tastiest butter you will ever try.
The entree of Garlic Soup with mushrooms & shallots looks absolutely striking – a creamy mark in the base of a deep black dish. The soup component itself is pure bliss with a velvety texture and sweetly mellow flavour – nothing harsh or sulphuric. The layered addition of mushrooms adds a fitting, underlying note of earthiness and a beautiful textural disparity.
The Braised Ox Tail with Octopus, Artichoke and Rosemary presented the most tender piece of red meat concievable. Just the slightest, lightest touch with a fork and the elegant tower of meat crumbles away into a small pool of thick, rich jus. The pairing of Santa Duc Grenache Shiraz added an extra dimension of meaty savoury flavours, but with the slight and pleasant addition of fruits on the finish.
Murray Cod with Crushed Kipflers, Asparagus, Shallots, Dill, Lemon and Butter is a locally produced masterpiece. The Cod is sustainably farmed near Goulburn and produces a delightful creamy and flavoursome fillet, light in texture but heavy on its ability to absorb accompanying flavours. There is crunch from a crumble topping, bite from asparagus slithers and smooth unity from the dressing of lemon and butter. It’s a perfectly balanced tribute to the native Australian fish.
The stand out favourite for the evening is Muscovy duck 3 ways – Roasted, Confit and Foie Gras with New Carrots and Apple, Celeriac & Hazelnut Remoulade. This dish is the highest possible note to finish a set of savoury courses. The 3 renditions of duck are absolutely packed with flavour, inconceivably tender and achingly moreish. The pairing of a cool, nutty-sweet remoulade embodies culinary perfection and will have you practising the lost art of plate-scraping to make the most of every last bite.
Dessert is a Rhubarb Crumble with Ginger Jelly, Rolled Oats and Vanilla Yoghurt. This is what dessert should always be – a light, sweet and enjoyable morsel to signal the meal is over and satisfy that human desire for “a little something sweet.” The Amber Tipple of Lark Hill Riesling capped everything off with flawless ease.
Sage is still one of the best Canberra has to offer. The sophisticated European vibe, effortlessly chic decor, infallible cuisine and highly attentive staff make every night there one to remember.
