I’m often asked what my favourite Canberra restaurant is. I stroke my chin, look up at the sky and pretend to think about it for a moment, then answer ponderously with the same name every time, as though it was an extremely tough decision to make. It wasn’t. My favourite restaurant is Flint in the Vines out at the Shaw vineyard Estate in Murrumbateman, so imagine my sheer delight upon hearing I was to head out that way for a review last week.
The drive out is scenic and relaxing and the venue takes every advantage of wide open country surrounds. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and attentive, the Shaw wines are amazing and the food is to die for. Sunsets are breathtaking and the moonrise is just as spectacular, the breeze is always soft and fresh and leaving at the end of the night is definitely the hardest part. I can’t imagine why I would have any other restaurant at the top of my local list. Just arriving, sitting down at a midweek table with a glass of Shaw Cielo Sparkling Semillon, listening to soft live music and looking out over the local farmlands as the sky slowly became an appropriation of a kinetic Turner-painted masterpiece made my entire week.
Wood Fired Petit Camembert with Rosemary and Garlic, Red Wine Glaze, Apple Compote and Warmed Ciabatta was one of the best starters I’ve had the fortune to indulge in. As soon as it landed on the table I was intoxicated by the euphoric earthen, wood fired scents emanating from the platter. The Camembert carried its signature silken, cultured tang as a luscious warm pool within the confines of a thick, chalky rind whilst the aromas of rosemary and garlic subtly add to the building layers of flavour. The apple puree was sweet and lightly spiced with a delicate aniseed tint and, coupled with the warm creamy cheese, thickly sweet balsamic drizzle, soft aerated ciabatta and resonating heat of a whole roasted garlic clove – all I can really say is perfection on a plate.
The entrée of Seared Scallops with Sweet Pee Puree, Caper Vinaigrette and Crisp Prosciutto looked beautiful. The vivacious green of the puree, sultry smattering of sombre capers, spritely sprigs of plum-hued micro greens, deep gold-encircled scallops and wafer-thin disc of auburn prosciutto just belonged together. The prosciutto tore apart with the ease of sunburnt tissue paper and melted in the mouth with a salted, smokey allusion. The scallops were creamy, tender, pale and soft but had a delightful pan seared crust of gilt crispiness which echoed the inclusion of prosciutto. The Sweet pea puree was smooth, exciting and naturally sweet – with the glistening encirclement of olive oil adding to both presentation and flavour – The fruited notes of the pure translucent oil further extracting elements of the puree and scallops.
The first of our two mains was the special of Seared swordfish steak with creamy mash and Mediterranean inspired salad. The most notable thing to mention about this meal was how fresh everything both appeared and tasted. The salad was full of herbs and deep greenery, cherry tomatoes bursting with juices and meaty olives which, thankfully, were pitted. The piquancy of citrus and essence of fruited olive oil permeated both the salad and swordfish steak which, when we’re talking seafood, is everything you could ever hope for. The fish itself was a seared, sizeable steak dribbling with tenderness and flaked apart with no effort on my behalf. The bed of creamy mashed potato was so soft and voluminous I was torn as weather to eat it or take a nap in it. You’ll understand my predicament if you’ve ever ordered the same dish. Thankfully, I ate it. Just about the best potato mash around.
The Slow Roasted Lamb Shoulder with Minted Jus and Side Salad of Iceberg Lettuce with Grated Sheep’s Milk Cheese is the perfect meal to share. The lamb shoulder was huge but had obviously been cooked with tender loving care. The deep maroon minted jus flooded and seeped into every tender crevice of perfectly cooked pale flesh, making the experience of enjoyment an extra bit superior. The salad of super crisp iceberg cups and distinctly flavoured sheep’s milk cheese was simple but very welcome – breaking up the intensely rich elements of the tender lamb shoulder to create a very well balanced and extremely gratifying meal.
Every experience I’ve had out at Flint – wether it by the moonlight movies, late weekend lunches, midweek chill-outs or special occasions – has been memorable with my definition of perfection. The atmosphere is beyond comparison, service is always with a smile and I’m just a real sucker for unhindered sunsets. Everyone needs a bit of Flint in their lives so check out their website (right now) and prescribe yourself a rather large, well deserved dose.
