Local restaurant, Sage Dining Rooms is literally adding new dimensions to its dessert menu. Here we interview new pastry chef, who describes his move to Canberra from some of the finest areas in France as an unexpected yet welcomed journey.
The love of pastry began for Jean-Charles Sommer as a boy in France kicking around a ball with his two best friends on an oval behind a cake shop. Sommer and his friends used to purchase sweets from the shop regularly, the aroma of the cakes and pastries ignited a sensory sensation and begun his love affair for the smell and taste of sweets.
His culinary journey however didn’t begin until he was aged fourteen working in that very same cake shop from midnight till 8am on the weekends, regularly skipping his English classes at school feeling as though it would never be useful to him, as he knew from an early age that he wished to become a pastry chef.
When Jean-Charles came of age, he dived straight into his apprenticeship, and at the end of the two years he competed in a pastry competition for which he won and was offered a job at a two Michelin-starred restaurant. He was also approached to commence a Masters in Pastry. Working along the French Riviera, he had a unique opportunity to work with the best chefs in France, and amongst the freshest of ingredients.
Sommer’s true passion for cooking is evident as it provides him with the perfect platform and ability to express himself. Thriving on pressure, he is a perfectionist and cooking makes him happy which is apparent through the quality food he produces.
Lessons were learnt from both the good and bad times. Pastry competition was high in France ensuring he strived for perfection whilst always cooking from the heart. Some of the best advice he received along the way was to travel, learn as much as you can, and be accepting; accepting of criticism, recommendations, diversity and environments. So travel he did. In September of 1995 he first ventured to Australia, ultimately settling here in 1996.
Although Sommer has lived in Australia for sixteen years he has a thick French accent, which only adds to his authenticity. Moving to Australia brought up several challenge. It is more difficult for pastry chefs as opposed to other chefs because of the specialised market and because the demand is much lower.
What ultimately made Sommer choose to reside in Australia was meeting his wife, who he now has three beautiful children with living down at the South Coast. He visits them every weekend and loves taking time out to go fishing. His love for cooking and the love for his job is what inspires his creativity at Sage.
He provided insight into his perception of a good pastry chef, saying that they require curiosity, eagernesses to learn, awareness of where their strengths lie and they need to be a good teacher as the essence of cooking is not being a good cook, it’s the ability to share knowledge.
Working in two and three Michellin-starred restaurants, working at Banc in 2000 which at the time was Australia’s leading restaurant, and in 2011 earning three chef hats is only some of the accolades he has received. Whilst living in Australia he has been presented with several opportunities to return to France, however he has proved he is here to stay.
Jean-Charles opened up and discussed how he creates his award winning menus. Before he puts pen to paper he evaluates and deciphers ‘what the people would want’. In doing so he is ensuring the consumers will enjoy and not be put off by the food, for example making sure the menu isn’t to eclectic or out there for a simple crowd.
I asked him to evaluate the essence of Canberra’s taste and he said ‘simple, well combined food and textures.’ Playing off this idea, he has created five brand new deserts to serve up for us lucky Canberrans.
His love for cooking is evident and his passion for working in challenging environments makes him adaptable, demonstrating he’s a great versatile chef. When asked what has been the pinnacle of his career, he replied, “everyone can push further, however I am happy and doing what I loves to do” proving his rise to the top is far from over as he continues to strive for success.