Every week, the nation’s spotlight shines on ‘The Press Club’ during its televised address. Australia’s movers and shakers enjoy a lunch while leaders, influencers and visionaries speak before them. However, another talent is on display: that of The National Press Club’s Catering team.
The great news is that, outside of these popular events, the same team develops and prepares the menu for Column Restaurant. Located upstairs at The National Press Club and right nearby the bar and lounge, this is a more intimate space to explore the seasonal offerings. To realise these possibilities, Executive Chef Daren Tetley has put together an award-winning team that delivers on his vision with rare consistency.
An early sign of the kitchen’s expertise is evident in the entrees. Some might consider a cheesecake to be an unusual way to start a meal, but at The National Press Club, the idea is executed with a great deal of intellect and wit. This is a Saint Agur Cheesecake, and it elevates the flavours of the Auvergne classic by matching the cheese with heirloom beetroots, caramelised onions and fried eschallots. The smooth and creamy texture of the cheesecake feels light and airy. This is important, as you don’t want to miss the mains to come!
Pork Belly becomes pretty with a perfect portion decorated with nasturtium flowers. The succulent meat is smoked with pecan wood to provide a sweet, rich, nutty flavour to a perfect cut that exhibits those wonderful layers of fat and meat. The underlying pieces of rhubarb have been dried to almost the texture of honeycomb. The way they initially crunch but then melt onto the palate is a wonderfully tart contrast to the sweet pork belly.
Duck Maryland is another standout form the menu. Perfectly designed for the season, the rich brown colour of the skin plays off nicely against the rich purple hues of the marinated red cabbage.
Add to that some roasted eschallots and a rich quince jus, and you’ve got all the big-hitters from winter’s range of flavours. While the focus is very much on the dominating Maryland, the supporting players bring a cohesiveness that will have you carefully measuring their portions until the last mouthful.
To finish, the Medjool Date and Pear Bavarois almost brings the meal full circle – back to where we began with a light and crunchy combination, however one that is much more sweet than savoury. Again the kitchen team (which, by the way, includes the 2014 ACT Apprentice of the Year, Lilly Rowlands), shines with a refined and sophisticated dish.
As with everything on the menu at Column Restaurant, on display is great technique, and the elements, though separate, work together in a fashion we’ve come to expect from this exciting autumn menu. The National Press Club presents a fantastic dining experience not only for those who attend their famous lunches, but for local Canberrans s well.
