Hostage Lounge Bar & Tapas only opened their Challis Street doors two months ago, but the concept and location are so perfect it seems almost insane the space is so young. Contemporary furnishings of fire-engine red, jet black and steely grey dot a space unassuming and meek from the outside – but the lay out combination of towering bar tables and low slung lounge-style seating, a striking corner bar and walls of windows create a vast, almost industrial warehouse, open space inside. The warm afternoon sun streams through unabashed, casting illuminated beams of golden light across the space, further refracted by the consistent bold geometric patterning on upholstery, walls and ceiling beams. After spending all day in an office, Hostage was the perfect place to be. I found myself sitting taller, breathing deeper, smiling softly for no particular cause and feeling a real sense of excitement to sample both the food and wine menus.
I think the best thing about the wine list here is its length. No, it’s not a novel the size of a small mammal, listing 400 grape varieties in miniscule font. It instead covers one single sided A4 page, which I find ideal. I didn’t need (or want) to sit there flipping between pages, umming and arring over socially or climatically irrelevant wine from Spain, France, Italy, Jupiter and Pluto. This concise and refined list names some of the best of each grape variety, and only one of each. How many Sauvignon Blancs can a person drink at once anyway? On a recommendation I tried the Villa Maria Pinot Gris from New Zealand. Fragrant aromas of ripe pear, quince and stone fruit are complemented with subtle notes of sweet spices and the palate is rich, full bodied, textured and harmonious without being stifling and overpowering. The cocktail list I sadly didn’t get around to, but will be making the time for a return trip as many well and truly piqued my curiosity, the “Grand escape” in particular.
The food here is an art form. Taste of course is very important, and I’ll rave about that in a moment, but the visual display of how the tapas is plated is something you need to see for yourself as I don’t believe photos can do them a true justice.
Coming from the coast, the first thing I dived into was the Cajun Calamari. Prepared as long, scored tubes instead of crumbed rings (thank goodness), calamari really is at its best with simple treatments. The tubes had a delicately light crisp to taste and deep golden colour, spiced lightly to a point of pure enjoyment and stacked neatly like little logs. The accompanying rich, thick balsamic drizzle and creamy aioli really pinpointed a flavour profile I wish I saw more of.
I’m not usually much of a hamburger gal, but the little Bull Burgers at Hostage just look so irresistible I had to have one. Nothing about these could come even close to stereotypical. There was no grease, no tower of fries, no soft, artificial sesame seed bun and certainly no wilted-beyond-repair lettuce. This little Italian inspired number comes with a soft, moist patty, creamy mozzarella cheese, semi dried tomatoes and the savoury punch of that miracle ingredient – anchovies. Again finished with a liquid jet drizzle of seriously thick balsamic and a sprinkling of fresh-as-a-daisy greenery, it’s a menu item you shouldn’t go past.
The last dish I inhaled was the deep fried Mozzarella balls with smoky tomato salsa. Cheese is pretty amazing on its own, especially Italian Mozzarella, but have you tried it deep fried? These golden crumbed spheres of creamy, salty, crisp, cultured and luxuriously velvety bliss are inarguable proof it is possible to improve on the assumed perfect. The smoky tomato sauce was something I’ve never tasted before, and had me considering wandering to the kitchen and begging the chef for the recipe. The first thing I did when I got home was bin my squeezy barbeque bottle. I’ve been ruined for all other sauces.
If dessert is your thing Hostage have a range of classic and, at times, kitsch (I refer to the glorious institution of “cherry on top”) cakes and pastries made locally and traditionally daily by Pasticceria Francesco. Think Caramel Canolli, Ferro Roche mud cake, cheesecake and beautifully made coffee.
If you haven’t visited Hostage Lounge bar and Tapas in Dickson, you really must. A very welcome addition to the Canberra dining scene, it’s the perfect place to wind down alone, as a couple or as a huge group celebrating the end of the working day. Thankfully, hostage is also open for breakfast and lunch. I can’t help but think this spells the end for the box of cereal living under my desk at work and soggy home-made sandwiches. If that’s not a reason to celebrate I don’t know what is.
