Part 2…continued from last week
As twilight set in, the twinkling fairy lights twined round the garden came out, as did some native wildlife in the form of a baby ring-tailed possum, playing in the rain guttering of old Gorman house. The atmosphere was bordering on surreal perfection and raised one notch further as we were invited inside to our Sage dinner table.
A lover of all things historic and classically beautiful, I fell head over heels for Sage as soon as I stepped eagerly through the door. The lighting is demure, floor wooden and menu the height of pleasing innovation. No time was wasted as; just sitting down to a champagne cocktail, the serving of Sage’s spring omnivore tasting menu with matching wines began.
The first of three entrees was the Jerusalem artichoke soup, poured into our bowls by the highly knowledgeable and attentive wait-staff. Combined with sweet caramelised baby onion slithers, crème fraiche and mildly acidic px glaze, the moss coloured bowl of soup I downed embarrassingly fast was the perfect partner to a remarkable Lark Hill Gruner Veltliner. The second entree was (to my seafood deprived delight) Cured ocean trout with horseradish meringue, fennel, leek, lemon and hazelnut. The parallel sleepers of trout were a dark, healthy shade of dusty pink and proved an absolute delight to slather in blobs of hazelnut puree. The final leg of entrees manifested as cider braised pork belly – crackling and all. Served on a rustic, charcoal coloured slate, the meat had obviously been served straight from the chef’s hands as it was steaming hot, so meltingly tender consumption was almost sensual and, the permeating apple flavours will always be an undisputed companion to pork.
Beginning the mains in fine fashion was a pan roasted snapper with white bean and smoked bacon cassoulet, barbequed prawn and carrot. The crispy skinned fish flaked apart in a vision of seafood perfection and, interestingly, went down seamlessly with a lightly spiced Tuscan Red wine instead of the traditional white. Our next main was a whisky smoked beef with blanched garlic puree, mustard, potato tower, watercress and inverted mushroom. The beef revealed a tantalising baby pink centre as I plunged in it had to be just about the best contemporary interpretation of a classic roast dinner I’ve yet been fortunate enough to try.
So good did the optional cheese course look, I temporarily ignored my annoying allergy and dived into the goat’s cheese parfait with micro herbs and dehydrated strawberries without hesitation. Regardless of the following day’s repercussions – It was completely worth it. Creamy, soft, salty, tangy, savoury and velvety – there was no way I was missing out. Not to mention the sweet, floral Muscat which I couldn’t possibly have sipped without sampling the appropriate food simultaneously.
A sweet tooth to the very end, dessert aptly named chocolate royale with hazelnut, praline and orange was everything I’d hoped it would be. The orange gel was intense and intriguing, hazelnut meringue with a chocolate mousse that was smooth, creamy and oh-so chocolatey. The matching Rutherglen estate Muscat from Victoria was far too easy to drink but perfect for its aromatics and silky sweet taste.
How to sum up a night of perfection? I will never be able to recommend Sage highly enough – particularly for any special celebrations you may have looming – I couldn’t think of a better gift. Mint, thankfully is a visit-on-a-weekly basis bar and I shall be doing so, religiously. The subtle beauty, classic styling and atmospheric perfection makes me think the concept must have been plucked straight from a Monet impressionism of idealised, carefree Parisian social life. For any family member reading this – remember my birthday is coming up. Hint hint.
