Canberra’s inner south has always played host some of the city’s best restaurants. Bodega de Pintxos along Kennedy Street in Kingston is no exception to the rule and raises the street’s dining profile by quite a substantial notch.
The tantalising aroma of a traditional wood-fired oven hits as soon as you enter, as does the colourful, rustic, chaotic mural work and blocks of repetitive vintage-styled typeface that adorns the walls on an impressive scale. Light fittings are fashioned from up-cycled olive oil cans, cute and vibrant flowerpots perch decoratively along dramatic wooden beams and splashes of matador red complete the animated Spanish themed atmosphere.
The table service is highly attentive yet non-obtrusive (the best kind!) and a deep crimson jug of Sangria soon find its way to the table, complete with tumbler style glass and bright pink straw. Happily, it seems summer has arrived here already. The Sangria itself is without doubt the best specimen this side of Spain and instantly alleviates symptoms of Mondayitis. Sweet, fruity, luscious, refreshing and made fresh to order in-house – what more could you ask for?
The first set of courses, the “Pintxos” consists of a mouth-watering list of high-class, small portioned, immaculately presented gourmet tapas – the objective being to order a few dishes and share around with mates.
The Gazpacho – Shot of fresh cold tomato, cucumber, coriander and beetroot soup topped with diced heirloom tomatoes and crouton – is fabulously refreshing and packed with spicy herbaceous flavour. Eskalibada – fresh snapper and confit white garlic, sour berries and extra virgin olive oil – displays textural brilliance and the confit garlic turns a small piece of fresh snapper into a moreish feast. Boquerones – white anchovies and manzanilla olive concasse – presents the traditional thirst-inducing characteristics of anchovies and olives (sip of Sangria dutifully taken) and, served atop a wafer thin crouton makes for a rather sensational mouthful. Solomillo de Pato – Duck breast with jerez reduction – is thick, juicy, glossy and gloriously sherry-sweet.
But that’s not all…The Rabo de Buey – Braised Ox tail dauphin on a wild mushroom velee – just falls apart into a tender, velvety, melting mouthful of pure bliss – you may even need a brief moment alone together. Ventresca – Tuna carpaccio on citric relish, white truffle and cucumber mousse – is a cooling, mellow combination of very unique flavours and is defiantly worth a try. The last of the Pinxtos dishes is one of the most luxurious, the Jamon en Tartar – jamon iberico and diced heirloom tomato tartar and green apple jelly – stars the 40 month aged Spanish delicacy and balances it atop fresh, cool flavours and textures.
Next up is the Tapas section of the menu which displays the same, high quality, beautifully presented food but in slightly bigger portions. The Bife – Grilled marinated Wagu striploin (marble score of 7) with sweet mustard tapenade – looks too photogenic to be true. The colour is deep, blackened grill-lines perfect and presentation immaculate. Happily (amazingly), it tastes even better than it looks. The Pato con Viera al Chocolate – Confit duck, sweet spice, crispy sour chocolate scallops with braised apple salad – is a revelation to western dining. Chocolate is a flavouring that, used in moderation, adds richness and depth to savoury dishes and smooths the raw edges of sharp ingredients – it works amazingly well here. Even the contrasting crunch of a crisp chocolate shell over the soft and creamy scallop is perfect. The Fuego Negro – Balsamic crusted pork belly – is one of the most memorable pork belly dishes you’re likely to ever try. The thick cubes are so unbelievably soft to the touch and the balsamic glaze is sticky, sweet, mellow and acidic all at once. Absolute perfection.
It wouldn’t be a proper Spanish-inspired experience without the Churros con Chocolate to finish. These Spanish donuts are made to order and arrive table side super-crisp and piping hot. Served with house made chocolate sauce it is the perfect end to a night filled with the best food and service Canberra has to offer.
Bodega de Pintxos raises the bar in an already competitive local dining scene. The atmosphere is contagious, the food is beautiful, the staff know their stuff and the Sangria is addictive.
What are you waiting for?
