After a few years of changes in ownership and direction, Artespresso is firmly back as one of the most consistent and sophisticated dining experiences on the Canberra scene.
Long term and well-known local Chef Mick Chatto has recently become full owner of this Kingston favourite and is forging ahead with a new-look menu that pays homage to popular dishes of the past, with a refreshingly relaxed approach.
The separate dining rooms and balconies of the Artespresso set-up make it a common venue for low key business and political dinners, and of course the guests of the sleek York Apartments that are above the restaurant. But the muted exuberance of the dishes and the versatility of the establishment (open for weekday lunches and once again for weekend brunches as well as the dinner staple) make it a fabulous location for a celebration as well as a romantic dimly-lit sojourn.
My dining partner and I were seated in the comfortable corner of one of the dining rooms which we ended up having to ourselves. The minimalist interiors subtly enhanced by the use of strong colours creates a comfortable atmosphere which brings the focus right down to the conversation you’re having with the person in front of you. It was a welcome change to the usual bustle, noise and intensity of other Kingston dining hotspots.
The entrees of kingfish tartar with chilli salt, hen’s yolk and capers and the prawn and pork belly assiette with sweet corn and chilli jam were a fresh start to the three courses. We saw a plate of the menu staple Sashimi too and our mouths watered. The kingfish was fresh and light, and the prawn was richly complemented by the very crisp pork belly. It was enough to whet our appetites for the next courses.
As another of Canberra’s white linen modern Australian restaurant set, it soon became clear that Artespresso holds its distinction and poise through its ability to serve common dishes of exceptional quality with added flair and zest that make them unique.
The confit of duck accompanied by sautéed horseradishes in a cabernet reduction was a tender and surprising flavour combination, given the general under use of whole horseradishes as the main vegetable accompaniment to a restaurant dish. The presentation of the charred salmon with onion puree in a sauterne sauce in a fan shape was so divine I didn’t want to ruin it by eating it. The flavours of the mains were simple but sophisticated, complemented by a few strong flavours, with the main features of the salmon and duck plump and pink to perfection.
Our host for the evening, restaurant manager Ty Zappia, was attentive throughout the evening and chose superb wines to match our dishes from Artespresso’s varied selection.
The dessert soufflé served with ice cream is a made-to-order delight flavoured by a daily change of fruit. We had blueberry which balanced out the sweetness of the soufflé, which was of course light, fluffy and risen to perfection. The cinnamon pannacotta with mascerated berries was creamy deliciousness. Cinnamon seems an obvious choice of spice for a pannacotta yet it isn’t done often, and the cinnamon gives a common dessert a depth in flavour.
The quiet sophistication, intimate atmosphere and innovative approaches to standard restaurant fare makes Artespresso a Canberra dining experience not to be missed. I cannot wait to return, especially to sample their new weekend breakfast/brunch menu.
Artespresso is offering OutInCanberra readers a special offer of 20% off total lunch bill. Redeem now
