While the rest of Braddon is demolished and rebuilt, Elk & Pea Eating House continues to command its place as one of the few single-story buildings with the suburb’s old charm. As one of the pioneers of the inner-inner-north dining scene, the ‘Elk’ has grown to become one of Canberra’s most beloved cafés-slash-restaurants.
With the launch of a new menu, the old traditions see a new lease on life. Chef Chris Sharp presents diners with an exciting evolution of the original street food theme, however the focus remains very much on Southern US, Mexican and Central American flavours.
A clear example of this is the Mexican Fried Fish Sopés. As always at Elk & Pea, the dish is a burst of colour and flavour (seriously… it’s amazing how good every plate looks). For fans of Mexican cuisine, it’s all here: avocado, jalapeno, and the delicious fried fish (barramundi). Add a dash of South-East Asia with some mango chutney, head to the Pacific with a squeeze of lime, and you’ve got the best of the tropics combined in a single dish.
Tacos have proved to be a perennial favourite at Elk & Pea. Circa 2016, the three versions
on offer include El Steak Out, El Pollo and Veganism in a Taco Shell. El Steak Out is at the masculine end of the scale, offering charred sweet corn, tomatoes, avocado and American mustard to create a fistful of flavours that will keep you going back for more. The same quality is present in El Pollo, however on this occasion it is the clever use of chorizo crumb that shows off the creativity of the kitchen. Old El Paso kit tacos, these ain’t.
There’s a secret mix of South American spices that provides the name of the delightful Grilled Latin Salmon. Generous serves of crispy-skinned fillet are on offer with this exceptional main, and it recognises the quality of the fish by keeping other ingredients in a supporting role rather than trying to take centre stage.
The rich worth of the spices is a great contrast to the sweet salmon. Fresh greens – including beans, bok choy and asparagus – make for a healthy dish that won’t have you worrying about skipping dessert.
It’s great that somewhere that led the Canberra street-food scene can continue to surprise and innovate. This is far from a Che Guevara-style revolution, but a sign that Braddon is growing into itself, and that places like Elk & Pea Eating House are very responsible for developing our favourite foodie precinct.
