It was a perfect spring evening when we headed out to Flint in the Vines, located at Shaw Vineyard Estate in Murrambateman. When we arrive, after a languid cruise along the Barton Highway, the sun is still full in the sky, the day still full of potential. We enjoy a few glasses of Shaw’s delightful Cielo Sparkling Semillon, overlooking the rolling paddocks and countryside and relax into the evening. Getting out of town isn’t the usual thing to do on a Thursday night, but being in the fresh air and the countryside, as cliché as it may seem, made work and the daily grind seem miles away.
The restaurant is warm and inviting, with scattered bookshelves showcasing the best cookbooks and couches separating the tables in the expansive room, which leads to a large deck that overlooks the vineyard. It’s a charming room that suits large groups, weddings and intimate dinners alike. The room is dotted with locals enjoying a low key Thursday night dinner, on what also happens to be 3 for $50 pizza night, where diners can enjoy a selection of Flint’s acclaimed wood fired pizza with toppings such as pear and gorgonzola and seasonal wild mushroom with truffle oil.
Perusing the menu, it reminds me of the original Flint restaurant which was destroyed in a fire in June, but with the added bounty of local wines and produce. There is an overall balance to the menu, displaying the finesse of a fine dining restaurant, with the added feature of its ‘nose to tail’ approach to food as well as maintaining hearty, pleasing fare such as the pizza selection and the kids menu for a more casual dinner.
We begin our meal with the wood fired petite camembert served with rosemary and garlic, port glaze, quince paste and warmed ciabatta. For the cheese lover, I doubt anything could be more glorious than wood fired cheese where the outside gains a smoky, dense flavour and when it is cut open, delicious oozing goo fills the plate. Needless to say, it doesn’t last long on the table and when we’re finished we wish there was more.
Next we sample the carpaccio of hiramasa kingfish, compressed with watermelon, rosemary and honey vinaigrette. The watermelon and rosemary are surprisingly compatible accompaniments to the freshness of the kingfish. The twice cooked goats cheese soufflé, served on a sweet pea and mint veloute, is a signature dish encompassing both culinary skill and flair, matching contrasting textures and flavours evenly.
The spiced char grilled spatchcock served with orange puree, apple and radicchio slaw combines the intensity of the crisp and spiced skin with the freshness of the slaw and puree. Apple and radicchio is an elegant mix of sweet and sour, that offsets the richness of the succulent bird.
But the sous vide beef fillet served with parsley brush, decadent duck liver parfait, truffle butter and Shaw cabernet jelly proves to be the real highlight. The sous vide technique- where meat is slow-cooked in an airtight plastic bag in a controlled temperature water bath- means that the beef fillet is cooked evenly and is incredibly moist and juicy. The accompaniments are pure indulgence, where your taste buds are invited to dart between the richness of duck liver, truffle and cabernet jelly, in a dish that is truly a feast for the senses. Throughout the evening each dish is perfectly matched by friendly yet professional staff with extensive knowledge of the food and wine. We try a range of Shaw’s pleasing, export-quality wines as well as some Canberra region favourites.
For dessert, we sample the chocolate terrine accompanied by bitter orange sauce and divine pistachio ice cream, and the Murrumbateman mess – a tribute to the local area, with meringue, strawberries, lemon and mandarin curd served spectacularly in a glass jar. Each mouthful is a wonderful surprise of flavour, with the subtle curd giving the dish some kick.
We finish our meal completely full and satisfied, but as we sit there pondering the now dark vast expanse, I’m already planning my next visit. Since opening in April 2010, the team behind Flint in the Vines, with their wide range of experience in the hospitality industry, has worked hard to establish it as a dining destination in the Canberra region.
Now host to an endless stream of weddings and functions, it seems that the capital has begun to notice this sophisticated country gem, whether it be for an indulgent high tea, a memorable Sunday brunch or a hassle-free Christmas meal. And it’s only going to get better.
With an already rotating seasonal menu, the food will be enhanced by the recent addition of the restaurant’s own kitchen garden. And with the onset of summer, Flint in the Vines will transform into a rolling festival of live music events, outdoor Shakespeare performances, and film evenings at the soon to be unveiled moonlight cinema. Don’t miss out.
Exclusive Offer: Enjoy a five course degustation at Flint in the Vines for only $50. Click Here for full offer.
