Redsalt restaurant is tucked away in the heart of the city, at the Crowne Plaza hotel and has become popular amongst foodies in Canberra.
Well-known around town for its exquisite seafood buffet nights on Friday and Saturdays, experienced Chef Lewis Taylor has set about revitalising the a la carte menu with a focus on local produce and local wines.
We’re seated against a window in the sprawling dining area. The expansive room, with its soft hues and well-spaced tables, makes for an intimate venue where you can barely hear your fellow diners.
As we contemplate the menu, it stands out for a number of reasons: the apparent careful construction of each of the dishes, its focus on quality, and its willingness to cater for dietary requirements as gluten free and vegetarian options abound.
We start with the twice-cooked goats cheese soufflé accompanied by a pear and hazelnut salad. The lightness of the soufflé is contrasted by the richness of flavour. The pear is perfectly matched with the goats cheese, and the hazelnuts add some texture to each bite. This is superbly matched with a glass of the 2010 Mount Majura Riesling, a wonderfully smooth drop.
The duck leg confit served with blackcurrant jelly and brioche is a balanced combination of salty and sweet, with the blackcurrant balanced out by the lemon and thyme flavours of the duck and a mesclun salad with radish. We wash this down with the fruity 2010 Mount Majura Chardonnay.
For mains, we choose the barramundi fillet served with almond aioli, baby fennel and a mussel stock and the open hand made herb lasagne with a vine ripened tomato sauce and ricotta. The mussel consommé is a subtle accompaniment to the barramundi, and the almond aioli adds a nice touch of texture and crunch to the dish. The open hand made lasagne is a creative dish executed with flair – the pureed roasted tomatoes are delectably sweet and nicely balanced by basil and ricotta, in amongst the delicate, fresh pasta sheets. The choice of the 2011 Squealing Pig Sauvignon Blanc with the barramundi and the 2009 Mount Majura Pinot Noir with the lasagne further demonstrate Redsalt’s excellent wine list and willingness to offer matching suggestions.
We cap off the evening with the decadent valhrona chocolate served two ways and a macadamia mille feuille with passionfruit curd and raspberry coulis, served with a 2008 Shaw Botrytis Semillon. The valhrona two ways is exquisite chocolate in the two forms of a ganache and fondant. The dish is both rich and refined, sweetly garnished with delicate pansy flowers. The mille feuille draws distinction between the buttery shortbread layers and the tang of the passionfruit curd.
Redsalt is an ever-modernising old Canberra stalwart that offers an intimate venue with excellent food and unparalleled service in Canberra. Make Redsalt your venue for a pre-theatre dinner or a large group celebration.
Entrees start at $19
Mains start at $26
Deserts start at $14
To find out more about Redsalt, click here.
