Nick Stock is one of Australia’s most respected and prolific wine critics. His deep involvement in wine stretches well beyond wine-writing to show-judging, educating, broadcasting and winemaking.
We had five minutes ahead with Nick ahead of his appearance at Bicicletta this Thursday night to host the Canberra Wine Dinner.
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You’re being joined by Bryan Martin. He’s a legend in these parts for his love of food and wine.
I’ve been lucky enough to know Bryan over the last few years – even through one moderately successful Movember campaign! It’s been great to follow his progress as a wine maker and as a Canberran culture commentator over that time. He’s a great guy.
Will you be featuring some unusual editions from his winery, Ravensworth?
We are! We’re ‘re bringing in his 2014 Nebiolo for dinner. IBryan’s always had a keen eye for Italian grapes, and the region’s Sangioveses are a really well realised version of an Italian grape.
We’ll also have a Tempranillo from Mount Majura, which is another great wine that is making a name for the region. Ken Helm is introducing his 2015 Riesling, which Ken reckons is the best he’s ever seen in Canberra. It was only bottled last week, so it will be a real treat.
Mick Spencer from Eden Road is providing some wines, ad is Nick O’Leary and of course the guys from Clonakilla. Lark Hill will be represented, and we’re looking forward to the Lerida Estate 2013 Shiraz Viognier, which has won all manner of awards over the last year or so.
Across the board, we’ve got some of the best examples of some of the best wines in the region… if not Australia!
Who us your favourite wine writer and why?
Huon Hooke. He was amazing – and always managed to respect traditions while also introducing the new. He’s very even, and very fair, and as such was a real role-model for me. I’d read him every week in the Good Food section of The Sydney Morning Herald, and then I followed his Good Australian Wine Guide, that Penguin has published for years. It’s kind of gone full circle now, because I write that book these days!
Huon has certainly been a great mentor! I owe him a lot of respect.
What are some rules to describing wine?
Look, it’s really important to not be afraid. Wine’s not scary…. it’s all about pleasure. This is the most important thing. So, if you find a wine that brings you pleasure, take some time to try to think about what it is that you like… is it the fact that it tastes like the cherries you used to enjoy in the summertime? If so, that’s fine!
It could be just the fizz of a sparkling on your tongue… but once you start noticing these things, you’re in! Keep these sensations in mind, then try another wine and describe what’s different. Anyone can do it! Before long you’ll be fond and familiar and know a lot more than you thought.
Australians are really only now starting to branch out to enjoy international wines. What are some great things that we’re missing out on?
I really love the wines of Piedmont in northern Italy. It’s the home of the Nebiolo, which Bryan will be pouring at dinner, and it’s unlike anything else within the red wine market. It feels almost majestic, and it wonderfully complementary with so many foods.
I’ve just returned from the region myself, and met a bunch of people I’d love to bring out here to look over the Canberra wine region to offer some assistance and advice.
What does the next ten years look like for the Canberra wine industry?
Look, it’s got some wonderful examples of Riesling – and they’re done really well. I think we’re going to see a much more diverse range of offerings within the hero styles, and there are great winemakers who are ready to explore them.
Outside of that, expect to see new wines such as the Nebiolo or even Gamay take hold as the years roll by. It’s an exciting time, and the Canberra region has plenty of potential.
Nick Stock joins Bryan Martin at The Great Canberra Wine Dinner this Thursday Night at Bicicletta in NewActon.
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