Among the quiet, red-tiled rooves of Canberra’s Northside, sits a bold and adventurous restaurant with huge floor-to-ceiling windows. However, while Pulp Kitchen’s glass façade provides an excellent view into suburban Ainslie, it’s much more exciting to focus on the highlights of the French bistro-inspired menu.
Certainly, there is something of a modernist feel within the venue due largely to its concrete floor and the giant slate tiles at the end of the restaurant, the subdued lighting and wooden tables bring a comfortable, natural feel that matches beautifully with the laid-back (though attentive) service led by owner Daniel Giordani.
If you’re in for dinner (or a truly indulgent lunch), be sure to take advantage of the full experience by treating yourself to un bon aperitif. For the truly authentic experience, we recommend a glass of Pastis 51, but there are plenty of other offerings to get you in the mood while you peruse the tempting menu.
Duck Liver Parfait with pickled grapes and bacon comes served with a smattering of shaved walnuts. The parfait is a long-time favourite of regulars at Pulp Kitchen, however, Chef Luke Drummond takes great delight in combining the traditional flavour with the very best of the season’s produce to add the finishing flourishes.
Creamy and rich, the parfait retains a real subtlety. At our table, there was something of a battle to get the last bite – which goes a long way to explaining why it has been on the menu for so long.
Keeping to some of the great traditions of French cuisine, the Smoked Veal Tongue demonstrates a modern presentation of classic techniques. Thinly sliced, the meat is at times dry and succulent – offering a ranging depth of flavours that makes working through the plate a delight. Topped with the crisp and sharp mustard aioli, it’s a balanced dish with lots to like.
On this visit, the Roasted Lamb Neck was a special – however it wouldn’t be surprising to discover it found a more regular home given the amazing flavours present in the dish. Served with glazed sweetbreads and set on pea puree.
To finish, the Rustic Panna Cotta with blood orange sorbet and meringue shards, sheds the conventional mould and takes a more freeform approach. Given the dessert’s popularity, Chef Luke Drummond refuses to be constrained by cooking individual serves. Rather, the panna cotta is cooked in a large batch and spooned onto the plate. When complimented with shards of meringue, the broken-down feel of the dish pulls together, providing a delicious way to finish with a blood orange sorbet that they could easily sell in containers to take home.
With a sensational weekend brunch on offer, great lunches and sophisticated dinners, Pulp Kitchen seems to have everything covered. Should it become a local regular or a journey across town, every trip to this Ainslie favourite is definitely worth the effort.
